What to expect on the Hozugawa River boat ride
Before you board
Everything happens in the waiting area at the Kameoka pier: the ticket counter, the toilets, the life jackets. Use the toilets. I cannot say that strongly enough, because there is not another one for 16 km. Passengers under 80 cm tall cannot board at all, even carried, since the smallest life jacket will not hold them. Wheelchair users can ride with a companion; a foldable chair is stowed on board and you transfer to the bench, and the chair may get wet.
The first stretch
You sit low. That is the first thing people notice, and it changes the whole scale of the gorge. The boat pushes off into flat water and for the first few minutes the crew barely works. One man stands at the bow with a bamboo pole, one is on the oars, one holds the rudder at the stern. They swap. Watch them do it in a moving boat and you will understand why three to five of them are on board rather than two.
The tow paths
Look at the bank on the left as you go. Cut into the rock is a narrow ledge, and that is where men once hauled the empty boats back upstream by rope. Timber was floated down this river to the capital from around the 8th century. In the early 1600s the merchant Suminokura Ryōi widened and cleared the channel so rice and cargo boats could get through to Osaka. The commentary covers this, in Japanese by default. On the packaged tours an English-speaking guide travels with the group, which is the practical reason most visitors book one.
The rapids
There are several short ones. The pole comes out, the boat picks up speed, the bow drops, and about ten seconds later you are back on flat water. Front seats get the spray. If the water is high the whole run is faster and wetter, and can be over in about 60 minutes; when it is low the crew works harder and the run stretches to about 110. Detail on how wet you actually get.
Eating, and what you cannot bring
A bento on the middle stretch is the local way to do this, and nobody will look at you strangely for it. The only rule is not to disturb the people around you.
Fine on board
- Bento boxes, snacks and drinks
- A light raincoat or poncho for the splashes
- A wheelchair, folded and stowed, with a companion
- Warm layers in winter, when boats run under a clear canopy
Not allowed, or not there
- Sun umbrellas, which are not permitted on board
- Any passenger under 80 cm tall, even carried
- Expectations of a toilet, or of heating in winter
Sit toward the stern if you would rather stay dry, and toward the bow if you would rather be in the middle of it. On a shared boat you cannot always choose, so bring the poncho either way. See what to wear.
The landing
The boat pulls in at Arashiyama and you step off into one of the busiest corners of Kyoto. From the landing it is a 15 to 20 minute walk to JR Saga-Arashiyama Station if you are going back into the city under your own steam. On a package this is where the tour picks the day back up. The whole river, start to finish, is written up in the complete guide.
Frequently asked questions
Is there a toilet on the Hozugawa boat?
No. The toilets are in the waiting area at the Kameoka pier and there is nothing for the next 16 km. Go before you board.
Can you bring food on the Hozugawa River boat ride?
Yes. Bento boxes, snacks and drinks are all fine as long as you do not disturb other passengers. Sun umbrellas are the thing that is banned, not lunch.
Is the commentary in English?
Assume Japanese. The boatmen narrate the whole run, and on the packaged tours an English-speaking guide travels with the group. See the tours hub for the ones that include a guide.
Can a wheelchair user ride the boat?
Yes, with a companion. Foldable chairs are stowed and you transfer to the bench seating. Be aware the chair may get wet.
How long is the boat ride itself?
About 100 minutes as a rule, roughly 60 when the water is high and fast, and up to about 110 when it is low. Full detail on the duration page.