Best time to visit the Hozugawa River
The timetable
Two seasons, two different clocks. The weekend rule in the main season catches people out: there is no hourly departure to aim for, the boat goes when the boat is full.
| Season | Dates | Departures |
|---|---|---|
| Main season, weekdays | 10 March – 13 December | Hourly, 09:00 to 15:00 |
| Main season, weekends and holidays | 10 March – 13 December | Boats leave when full, no fixed clock |
| Winter season | Second Monday of December – 9 March | 10:00, 11:30, 13:00, 14:30 |
| New Year closure | 29 December – 4 January | No service |
| Safety inspections | A handful of days in February and September | No service |
Service is also suspended in severe weather, or when the water is too high or too low. That is not a rare event on this river, and it is the main reason I tell people to keep the day flexible. What happens to your money if it is called off is covered under cancellations and refunds.
Season by season
- Spring. Cherry blossom along the banks. Short, and busy while it lasts.
- Summer. The gorge is solid green and the air off the water is genuinely cool, which is more than can be said for Kyoto in August. My own favourite for a weekday ride.
- Mid-November to early December. Autumn colour. The best looking and the busiest. Book something rather than turning up.
- Winter. Bare rock, sometimes snow, four sailings a day under a clear canopy. Quiet in a way the rest of the year never is. Dress for it.
Which departure to take
The 09:00 on a weekday, if you can make it. The light is better in the gorge early, the boats are emptier, and you land in Arashiyama with the whole afternoon left rather than fighting for a lunch table at two. In winter that logic points at the 10:00. If you are coming out from central Kyoto you need to leave about an hour before the sailing you want, which the travel times explain.
In the foliage fortnight, a booked package is worth more than it is in June. Golden Week and the November colour are the two periods that genuinely sell out, and a tour that includes the Sagano Romantic Train fixes both the seat and the return. Compare the boat and train combinations.
Weather, and when the river closes itself
Rain alone does not stop the boats. Water level does. After heavy rain upstream the run can be suspended entirely, and in a dry spell the crew may take about 110 minutes to work the boat down a channel that would normally take 100. Both are normal. Neither is something you can predict a fortnight out, so the sensible move is a booking you can cancel.
Frequently asked questions
What time does the Hozugawa River boat ride run?
From 10 March to 13 December, hourly on weekdays between 09:00 and 15:00. On weekends and holidays in that season the boats leave when they are full. In winter there are four fixed departures: 10:00, 11:30, 13:00 and 14:30.
When is the best month for autumn leaves on the Hozugawa?
Mid-November to early December. It is the best looking stretch of the year on this river and the busiest, so book ahead through tickets and booking.
Does the Hozugawa boat run in winter?
Yes, from the second Monday of December to 9 March, with four sailings a day under a clear canopy. It is closed 29 December to 4 January. Dress warmly and do not count on heating — see what to wear.
Is the boat cancelled if it rains?
Not usually. Service is suspended in severe weather or when the water is too high or too low, which is a different thing from ordinary rain.
When is the river quietest?
Summer weekdays. The gorge is green, the air off the water is cool, and you are not queueing behind the foliage crowds.